Showing posts with label Soap. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Soap. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 16, 2016

Christmas Soap

While at the Mister's family Christmas, we had a Yankee Swap! It was great fun, with 27 of the 33 individuals participating. I contributed six bars of a Christmas Soap I had made for that express purpose.

I also gave about a dozen bars to my local Stitch-and-Bitch group for a set of holiday gifts we made for the restaurant that hosts us.


Here's the Recipe:
Essentially, this batch is made using two separate batches of hot process soap. First, you make the green, and then the red.

Ingredients:
  • 6.5 oz water (x2)
  • 2.5 oz lye - 9% superfat (x2)
  • 8.25 oz olive oil (x2)
  • 5 oz coconut oil (x2)
  • 2 oz cocoa butter (x2)
  • 2 oz shea butter (x2)
  • 1.25 oz castor oil (x2)
  • 1 oz jojoba oil (x2)
  • green soap coloring
  • red soap coloring
  • Essential Oils (recommended): Pine, Treasure of the Season, Cinnamon Bark, Nutmeg, Christmas Spirit
  • Crockpot, gloves, apple cider vinegar, scale, eye glasses, immersion blender, wax paper, pyrex baking dish, soap spoon, and glass tools/jars
Directions:
  1. Measure out the oils and put the first set of oils in the crockpot to melt
  2. When the oils are mostly melted, add a dash of green soap coloring. Stir it in until mostly disolved.
  3. Measure out water and lye in separate glass dishes. Slowly add lye into water, stirring as you go to dissolve lye. Be sure to follow safety procedures.
  4. When the lye is dissolved and slightly cooled, add it to the oils, and blend with the immersion blender until the mixture reaches trace (about a minute).
  5. Put on cover and wait an hour or two for the cook.
  6. Stir in one teaspoon of Pine Essential Oil and one teaspoon of Treasure of the Season Essential Oil.
  7. Line a glass baking dish with wax paper and pour the first mixture into the mold. Place it in the oven at a low temperature to keep warm.
  8. Repeat steps 1-5 with the second set of oils and the red coloring.
  9. This time, add one teaspoon of Christmas Spirit Essential Oil and a half-teaspoon each of Nutmeg and Cinnamon Bark Essential Oil.
  10. Take the first batch out of the oven and pat down the soap mixture. Pour the second batch on top and stir/swirl the two together.
  11. Let the mixture sit for at least 24 hours before removing it from the mold and slicing it into delightful bars of soap!

Wednesday, February 4, 2015

Sea Salt Soap

I'll be finishing up with the last two Christmas posts this week and next on Wednesdays, so hopefully by the time that's over, I'll have something new ready to post about!

This week, we'll take a look at the soap that I made my mother-in-law, who can never ever get enough of the beach.  Having made my father-in-law some wonderful Adirondack soap, I decided to make her some sea-salt soap-scub bars.

After doing some research, I ad-libbed the recipe, and came out with some beautiful bars that I really love (and I hope she does, too!).

Ingredients:

  • 6 oz water
  • 2.75 oz lye
  • 12.75 oz coconut oil
  • 1.875 oz castor oil
  • 1.875 oz cocoa butter
  • 1.875 oz olive oil
  • 1 lb Celtic Sea-Salt
  • a pinch of yellow coloring
  • 15 drops each of Rosemary and Citrus Fresh Essential Oil
I measured and melted the oils as usual, added my yellow coloring, created my lye base, and brought the mixture to trace in about 3 minutes, at which point it turned a nice sunflower color.  After a two hour cook, I added the Essential Oils and Sea Salt and stirred vigorously, before pouring the whole mixture into the mold.

As predicted, the sea-salt made the bar crumbly and difficult to cut.  After letting it sit for about 40 minutes, I took the whole bar out of the mold and cut off the two (now solidified) ends, revealing a slightly mushy center.  Since the edges were hardening fast and the center was still liquidy, I let it sit for a few more minutes, and then I cut another slice off each end.  I repeated this process all the way through, always waiting until the center was just barely hard enough to not droop out when sliced before going ahead, since the edges were continuing to harden and crumble.

Over all, I'm pretty pleased with the results.  I might have to make myself a batch!

Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Brantingham Pine Soap

As you've probably noticed, after moving to weekly posts, I've been able to keep up, but the posts can often come quite a bit after the actual project has been completed.

On that note, I'm still posting about Christmas gifts in the end of January.

Next on the list is a mini-batch of soap that I made for my father-in-law.  They have one of the most beautiful cabins in the Adirondacks I have ever seen, perched serenely atop a hill the plunges into the cool lake waters of upstate New York.  It's been in the family for three generations, now, and it is Dad's favorite place in the whole wide world to be.

Unfortunately, it's not heated, and so there's no chance of getting up there in the winter.

In light of this, I got some lake water and pine needles this summer, and boiled them together into a pine-needle tea, which I used as the water-base for the soap.  I cooked the soap using my usual recipe, and after trace, I added Pine and Cedarwood essential oils, as well as green and brown coloring.  Because the coloring was added after the cook, it was blotchy and perfect for the pine-needle-strewn calico ground surrounding the cabin.

Over all, I'm really happy with how this came out.

Thursday, February 13, 2014

Shampoo Bar Soap

While I was on a soap-making spree, I came across this recipe from Frugally Sustainable.  Since I had been looking for an alternative to commercial shampoo, I jumped right on it!  Here's the finished project.
Here's the problem.  It doesn't work.  It leaves a greasy residue in my hair and makes it tangly.
Has anyone else had this experience?  What did you do about it?  Commercial shampoos dry out my ends, while my roots grease up every day, and I'm hoping to switch, but I'm at a loss!  Advice would be appreciated!

Saturday, February 1, 2014

Basic Soap Recipe

If you've been following this blog, you know that on Tuesday, I posted about How and Why you should make your own soap.  Today, I'm going to follow up with my favorite basic soap recipe.

This recipe provides a pretty good amount of lather (from the castor oil), a nice cleanse (from the olive oil), and a bit of moisture so your hands aren't left crusty (from the coconut oil).  This is a hot-process soap.

Ingredients:

  • 6 ounces of water
  • 2.75 ounces of lye
  • 12.5 ounces of olive oil
  • 6.25 ounces of coconut oil
  • 1.125 ounces of castor oil
  • Essential Oils (as desired)
  • Colorants (as desired)

You'll also need some supplies:

  • Hand blender
  • Crock pot (about a quart)
  • a plastic shopping bag or other liner
  • a sturdy box (I used an old cardboard box from those 8-set yoplait yougurts)
  • a scale (to get precise measurements)
  • a soap-only spoon
  • a heat-resistant glass container
So, now that you know what you need, here's the process:

  1. Measure out your oils and melt them together in the crockpot.
  2. Measure out your lye and water.  Make sure the water is cold and, very slowly and with caution, add the lye to the water bit by bit.  The lye will cause a heat reaction, so this should be a carefully controlled addition.
  3. At this point, I add different colorants to each batch.  This is completely optional, but always use specific soap dyes for this (they're not that expensive).  If you choose to use colorants, read the label to see if they are to be added to the water (ie the lye solution) or the oils (what's cooking in the crockpot).  In fact, some are best to be added at the end.  Read up on your particular colorant.
  4. When the oils and the lye solution are about the same temperature, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils.  At this point, any plastic ware or wood you are using (such as a spoon) should never again be used for food.  The lye will leave traces in wood and plastic.  Stainless steel, glass, and ceramic are safe.
  5. Use the hand blender to blend the mixture to trace.  Basically, it should be the consistency of pancake batter.  When you lift the blender out of the mixture, it should leave convex trails of mixture along the top.  For this recipe, it should take 10 minutes or more.
  6. Then, you put the lid on and just let it cook.  With my crockpot, this recipe takes about an hour and a half.  You should see the entire mixture crawl up the edges and fold over into the middle.  There will be a pool of glycerin in the middle.  You can either collect this or stir it back in.  Everything should have turned whiteish foamy, and then eventually go back to being transparent at least in some places.
  7. If you're adding essential oils, add them at this time and stir them in well.
  8. Pour the mixture into a plastic bag and lay it inside the box you are using as a mold.  Let it harden for at least 24 hours, then remove it, peel off the plastic bag, and cut it into bars.
Here are a few bars that I have made recently.  Each color signifies a different combination of essential oils.

Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Homemade Soap - How and Why You Should Make It

Last year, I got into Soap Making.

If you've never made soap before, this may sound a little strange.  Here are some basic misconceptions about making soap at home:

1. It's difficult.
Soap-Making is pretty simple!  It basically involves knowing three parts, and you just make sure to combine them at the right time!

2. It's expensive.
This one is also false.  Homemade Soap is a fraction of the cost of store bought soap.  There will be some up-start costs, and if you choose to use exotic oils in your soaps, then yes, it will be a bit more expensive, but even then, buying exotic soaps in the store would cost more, too.

3. The soap is bad quality.
Again, this is not true.  Like any hobby, soap making takes practice, but with time, beautiful, high quality soaps can be made at home.  The soap you make is also NOT less effective.

4. It's dangerous.
There is a little bit of truth to this.  While making soap, you are working with Lye and very hot oils.  Use basic chemical precautions and keep animals or small children away from chemicals and soap-making.  However, when done with care, this can be a safe and easy hobby.

Now that we've expelled some basic misconceptions, lets go on to explain other reasons why you should make soap at home!

1.  It's cheap. Very cheap.
2.  It's easy.  You make a batch and it lasts for a while.
3.  If you like it, you can experiment.  Add scents, essential oils, color, oatmeal, whatever!
4.  You control what goes into your soap.

Let me say that again.

4.  You control what goes into your soap.

Why is that so important?

Well, first off, there are tons of chemicals in store-bought soaps that are harmful to your body.  They seep in through your skin and can affect your mood, your homeostatis, and your brain.

But there's another reason.  Lets say you live in a family of five.  There's a baby with dry skin that needs gentle soap.  There's a teenager with acne.  There's a child whose skin gets little bumps from not being exfoliated enough.  There's a grandma with soft wrinkles.  There's a parent with dredlocks.

When you make your own soap, you can tailor each batch to a certain person.  No need to go to the store and buy expensive dredlock shampoo --  you can just make a soap with extra beeswax and jojoba oil instead of olive oil and they can use it as shampoo.  Soaps with oatmeal or coffee can exfoliate.  Some oils are more moisturizing, some are harsh, some are gentle, some are fairly typical.  You can learn the properties of each oil and each superfat and you can adjust to your loved ones, refining each batch a little more.

Store bought products might say "for dry skin" or "for blackheads," but each person's skin is made of different chemicals, and so it might be dry for different reasons, and what helps one person might make another worse.  When you make your own soap, you can avoid this trial-and-error with expensive products that just go to waste.  Make a small batch.  Does it work?  Great!  Make more!  Is it not the best fit?  Use it until it's gone, or bring it to the kitchen, or donate it, or shred it to make homemade laundry detergent.  Make another one!

Do I have you yet?

If so, read on, and I'll explain the basic idea of soap making.  If not, read on, and see how easy it is!

No matter which soap making process you're using (more about that later), there are several basic ingredient categories.

1. Fats.  These are usually oils, and any combination of different kinds of oils can be added in here.  Some recipes call for beeswax.

2. Caustic. Usually lye, every recipe needs a caustic.  Basically, this chemical interacts with your fats and chemically produces soap.  This process is called saponification.

3. Carrier/Liquid.  You'll need a liquid -- usually water, but sometimes milk or tea -- to dissolve your caustic.

Okay, so now that you've got an idea of what you'll need, lets learn about how to combine these ingredients.  There are two main processes for soap making -- hot process and cold process.  There are others, but they are more obscure are are better done with practice.

In both processes, first, you weigh out your fats.  Using a lye calculator, you can determine how much lye you'll need.  Always use a lye calculator.  Different oils have different amounts of fat, so your lye amount can change.  You usually leave a certain percentage of fats left un-reacted, called a superfat, as a buffer.  Too much lye can burn the skin!  Too much fat just makes it mushy.

Once you know how much lye you'll need, you can dissolve it into your liquid.  Always put the lye in the water, not the other way around.  If your oils are solid at room temperature, melt them, and combine them all together.  Then, you add the two mixtures together and stir them to trace.  Trace is a big spiffy word for "it looks something like pancake batter."  It means everything is mixed up.

This is where the processes differ.  In cold process, you pour your mixture into a mold and you let it sit for several weeks.  Then, you can use a spiffy tool to check and see if all of the lye has reacted.  If so, cut and use!

In hot process, you pour the mixture into a crockpot and basically bake the lye out.  There's a certain look it gets when it's done. (I suggest you google a picture).  At that point, you pour it into the mold, let it harden, and as soon as it's hard it's usable.

Soon, I'll post about some of my favorite recipes.  Stay tuned!

Has anyone else made soap at home before?  What are your favorite techniques and recipes? Which process do you like better?